South Africa is a geographically diverse country with eye-popping
natural wonders everywhere you look. We all know the big ones: Kruger
National Park, Table Mountain, the Karoo, the Drakensberg Mountains. But
if you dig deeper into your travel book you’ll find dozens of lesser
known places, offering their own unique versions of dramatic South
African beauty. De Hoop Nature Reserve is one of those places.
De Hoop seascape.
Last weekend I spent three days at De Hoop,
which is a three-hour drive southeast of Cape Town. Full disclosure: The
trip was sponsored by the De Hoop Collection. (Trips like this are what
blogging dreams are made of.)
What I enjoyed most about the weekend —
besides the beautiful accommodation and indescribably delicious food —
was the opportunity to explore a place just far enough off the beaten
path to make me feel like I was completely away. De Hoop is a great place to relax and experience nature without having to totally rough it. Plus you can play with starfish.
Dalfrenzo Laing, our guide for the
weekend, shows me a starfish. I can’t believe it took me 38 years to
realize that I love starfish. (See more starfish in my previous post.)
The weekend consisted of three main
activities: walking along the coastline; walking around the vlei (“vlei”
means “lake” or “marsh” in Afrikaans); and relaxing around Melkkamer
House, the restored farmhouse where I stayed with four other women.
We had to cross the vlei in a motor boat to get from the main De Hoop lodging area to Melkkamer House.
Crossing the vlei. I loved watching
the waterbirds on the vlei, especially the red-knobbed coots — funny
duck-looking birds who “run” along the surface of the water for 50 or 60
meters before finally taking flight. (I was too mesmerized by the coots
to take photos of them.)
I missed the coots but I did get the pelicans.
Melkkamer House is just a little bit pretty. Full disclosure #2: I could never afford to stay here on my own dime, although the rates
are quite reasonable for what you get. If you can afford it, you should
stay there. If not, De Hoop offers lovely accommodation options for
regular folk.
View of the vlei from Melkkamer House.
My favorite activity (again, besides the
eating) was walking along the coastline. The beach is a few kilometers
from Melkkamer House; we drove there on our first morning and walked for
an hour or so along the hills above the water.
Hiking the shoreline. It was
stunningly beautiful but hot. I learned a valuable lesson on this walk:
Unless you are a South African with feet that are genetically programmed
to walk barefoot, do not attempt to hike the De Hoop coastline without
shoes. I nearly destroyed the soles of my feet with a combination of
scalding-hot sand and sharp little shards of shell.
A seagull enjoys the view.
After our hike, we took a dip in the
impossibly clear seawater by a secluded cove. Then we had lunch, doing
our best to fend off the aggressive biting ants around the picnic area
(note to self: bring closed shoes next time), climbed a massive sand
dune (not as massive as the dunes in Namibia, but with softer sand) and embarked on an interpretive marine walk with Dalfrenzo.
The start of our marine walk.
I’ve taken quite a few guided walks since
moving to South Africa. Such walks are made or broken by the guide who
leads them. Dalfrenzo made this marine walk. I was amazed that
such a young person could amass so much knowledge about this unique
marine environment. I was also delighted by Dal’s enthusiasm. Who knew
mussels and seaweed could be so interesting?
If you go to De Hoop and decide to book a guided hike, I highly recommend Dalfrenzo.
Dal shows us a sea urchin.
Interesting view of this fragile marine protected area.
Another starfish. I love them.
Note: Whale-watching season runs from June to December and De Hoop is one of the best places in South Africa to see whales. Hopefully I’ll make it back someday at the right time of year.
On our second morning we hiked around the
vlei. This was a more strenuous hike than the day before and I really
enjoyed the exercise, although the scenery is not as dramatic as what we
saw along the coast.
Sacred ibis on the vlei. Giant dunes in the background.
The eland is the largest antelope species. There are lots of them at De Hoop. This photo doesn’t convey how huge they are.
De Hoop is also home to a rare
antelope species called the bontebok. I think they are the most
beautiful of all antelope but again, my photos don’t convey it. I took
about 1,000 bontebok shots and they all look pretty much like this one. I
need a longer lens.
Quiche by the vlei. The food on this
trip was, hands down, the most delicious food I’ve ever eaten in South
Africa. Our private chef, Mercia Tyobeka, is a brilliant food genius. I
love her.
The last thing that I loved about my trip to
De Hoop was the local troupe of baboons. I realize my affection for
baboons might arouse controversy. Most people — especially South
Africans — hate baboons, often for good reason as baboons can be quite
aggressive toward humans. But the baboons hanging around Melkkamer were
civilized and, in my opinion, adorable.
I regard the baboons. The baboons
regard me. This mutual awareness is charming to me. One of them did
creep up to the house in the wee hours of the morning and rattle our
bedroom doorknob. I sat up in bed and saw the top of its head as it ran
away. Still, no harm done.
I could say more but I’ve posted 18 photos
and 1,000 words. So I’ll leave it at that. De Hoop is awesome and you
should go there. The end.
One more cute baboon shot for the road.
http://2summers.net/2013/02/07/starfish-safari-at-de-hoop-nature-reserve/